Our guide, Nyi Nyi, suggests that we call him Frankie as, with our western intonation, we are likely to call him Ni Ni – which would make him sound like a girl. He has a warm face, friendly smile and an impressively colloquial knowledge of the English language. And, as we drove from the airport [...]

Amazing to wake on that first morning, to lie in bed and watch people walking along the board walk that circles the lake. Even then, before the sun was up, the iconic umbrellas were raised above several heads. Our first stop was the Chaukhigyi Paya. The bus stopped outside a place which looked a little [...]

The bartering began at Nyaing U market which was our first stop on the way to Bagan Thande Hotel. As we drew up the bus was soon surrounded by people with something to sell, accordion pleats of postcards and the urgent pleading of those who know the window of opportunity is short until the next [...]

An early start for our balloon ride over Bagan. In the hotel garden we started the day with a dawn breakfast before the bus arrived to take us to the launch. An old fashioned bus with wooden benches down each side where we sat overdressed in extra layers soon removed. Other buses were there before [...]

Today we didn’t have to leave until 8.30 and set off after a leisurely start from Nyuang U jetty. Down by the waterside men were already sitting cross legged playing cards, women were fetching and carrying and children busy with the business of doing nothing, running around and watching in laughing groups as the visitors [...]